Munar

There is a tremendous feeling of drama today as Nasir and I pushed our way past the loaded mules. We came across many small oxen loaded fantastically high and getting very short shrift indeed when they collapsed under the weight as they often did, when they would be attacked by boulders and hard whacks with stout canes across the rump, accompanied by a great deal of violent high pitched screaming
Extract from fieldwork diaries

Extracts from David’s fieldwork diaries

“The five subdivisions of the Osiwands converge on the Rah I Munar from their various starting points and each has slightly different routes at the beginning and after the migration is over they spread out over their territory once again.”

“Stopping places on the migration are traditional within flexible limits of course and groups who consequently travel together habitually stop at the same places year after year.”

“Hundreds of tribesmen are on the move here. There is a tremendous feeling of drama today as Nasir and I pushed our way past the loaded mules. We came across many small oxen loaded fantastically high and getting very short shrift indeed when they collapsed under the weight as they often did, when they would be attacked by boulders and hard whacks with stout canes across the rump, accompanied by a great deal of violent high pitched screaming. Most of the women were on foot, dressed in the usual thin cotton shift, many had bare feet. Underfoot the going was very rough and rocky and the path was very narrow in places so one’s legs were always in danger being badly crushed or scraped on the boulders round which we endlessly wound. This is the baby migration with baby donkeys scampering, kids tied on to the back of the donkeys or being carried by a young child strapped on to the loads themselves. Pups, badly treated on the whole, are too young to walk and are tied on as well. Gnarled old women with lined faces and rheumatoid hands scrambled slowly and painfully up the slopes groaning with age, their streaked dead-looking hair hanging bedraggled under their dirty caps. Young women with cradles strapped to their backs and babies round their waists tiredly crawled along. Everyone shouting and yelling as they urged the animals on and on. It was very hot and dusty and the smells of the animals grew stronger. Tremendously interesting sight as eventually we came to the approaches of Munar. The path narrowed until we were going single file only. The sheep could be seen further up the mountain and by the time we got on to the pass itself most of the sheep had been left behind or had already crossed. There are all sorts of tribes here, mostly Babadi sub-sections and Duraki Taifehs. Hundreds of the tribesmen nose to tail lined the route all along the side of the mountain”.

“We clambered under long cool overhangs of rock along a path worn smooth after generations of crossing. It took about three quarters of an hour to cross the path itself. At one point I came across a young woman sitting at the side of the path, holding a baby breast feeding. She seemed to be imploring the passing tribesmen for a blessing or she was bestowing a blessing on them. Anyway she was kissed and her forehead touched by the women as they passed.”

“Eventually after much screaming and urging we managed to continue and over at last on to the other side. This was heavily wooded with oak and not so fierce although it was still impossible to ride down into the succeeding valley. The tribes streamed over the top and down the slope into the valley. Many many colourful dresses and much merriment that they had got across alright… Each defile in the valley houses a different section. The Osiwands stay close to each other. No one erected their tents and used instead cane screens. The valley was crowded with camps all making lunch. Today has been an eight hour haul and everyone is very hungry.”